
When to Retire a Rope
Climbing rope is rated by the number of falls that the rope has taken. You should check the rating on the rope, before purchasing, and keep track of the falls. A rope that has used up all the falls should be discarded. If you have a long fall, the rope should immediately be replaced.
In addition, any rope that has been frayed or damaged should be discarded. Sometimes, the ends get frayed and you can just cut off the end of the rope. If the sheath is broken, the rope should be discarded.
In general, if you climb every weekend you should get new rope every year. If you climb a few times a year, then replacing the rope every other year is best. If you only climb once a year, then the rope will last about four years. Many factors come into play. How hard you use the rope makes a big difference. Toprope will allow falls to be really short and there will be less strain on the rope with more anchors put in. On the other hand, long descents with a figure 8 can be hard on the rope. If the rope goes over a hard surface like granite, it can also fray the rope prematurely. In general, people don't replace their rope often enough. The rope should be carefully inspected each time it is used.
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